Colourful retro inspired fingerless mittens to bring some cheer on a cold dreary day using this self-striping yarn from Scheepjes! The way two colours can combine can be a lovely journey of discovery to see how the stripes play out. The pattern is published for free here in this blog - just keep scrolling...
Right, now let's play hooky!
Here are the Materials you will need:
Scheepjes Downtown (75% Merino extra fine, 25% Nylon; 50g/200m) x 1 (1: 1) ball of Sunset 401
Scheepjes Downtown (75% Merino extra fine, 25% Nylon; 50g/200m) x 1 (1: 1) ball of Streetlights 405
2.5mm (no US equivalent) crochet hook
16 x stitch markers per gauntlet
Here is a quick look at the Downtown Range:
Shopping via these links does not cost you any extra, and it helps to support me as a designer as I receive a small percentage of the sale. Thank you very much if you decide to source your yarn this way.
Wool Warehouse (in the UK; ship worldwide)
Caros Atelier (in the Netherlands)
Gauge/Tension you will need to match for the sizing to work out:
14.5 sts x 17 rounds of tapestry dc in a spiral to 5 x 5cm (2 x 2in) before blocking using a 2.5mm hook (or hook size required for gauge – check gauge after first 25 rounds - doing this saves buying a third ball for swatching and your tapestry yarn-carrying technique has more influence on finished size than blocking does).
And here are the sizing details:
[ ] number of sts on a given row/round
ch(s) chain(s) or chain st(s)
dc double crochet
dc2tog double crochet 2 together to decrease by 1 st: (insert hook in next st/sp, yoh, pull up lp) twice, yoh, draw through all lps
htr half treble crochet
M (stitch) marker
PM(s) place stitch marker(s)
RM(s) remove stitch marker(s)
RS right side
ss slip stitch(es)
tr treble crochet
WS wrong side
yoh yarn over hook
Special Abbreviations used in the pattern:
Join New Yarn Without a starting lp on your hook, insert hook into indicated st/sp, yoh, pull up a lp (leave a 15 cm tail on other side of work), ch1 to secure yarn (does not count as st). Work next instruction in same place as this join then pull beg tail firmly to collapse the ch1 and reduce bulk.
Secret Sew Finish Cut yarn with 20 cm tail. Gently pull yarn through top of last st made at end of round. Thread yarn onto tapestry needle, sew front to back under top 2 lps of second stitch of the round and sew back into top of last stitch made at end of round. Sew in loose end securely.
Spike dc A spike st (in this case a dc) is one that is worked into a st below the previous row or round, trapping fabric within the st. Instructions specify where to insert hook to work the spike dc st.
(Read this first for the general approach to how the mittens are made and tips for all the troubleshooting).
We begin by working a long strip of foundation Short Rows of (ch1, 1dc) that will wrap around the mid-forearm. The long strip will be closed as a ring by working a spiral round of edging across the ends of the Short Rows, working 1dc/short row. Beginning at the 1strow-end, we close the ring and work Spiral Round 1by working 1dc in the space between the ch and the dc of each Short Row. Each Gauntlet is made as a spiral of tapestry crochet worked bottom up from the Arm-Opening towards the hand and then split for the Fingers and Thumb Openings. Spiral Rounds include tapering shape towards the wrist, then rapid increases for the hand/palm, then split to finish the Fingers Opening. Fasten off and edge the Thumb Opening, then fasten off and edge the other side of the Foundation Short Rows.
STRONG RECOMMENDATION: For any shaping round, PM at base of 1st dec/inc of round so you can keep track of where you are up to. Leave Ms in place until you complete the entire gauntlet.
Ensure your beg tails are at the start of a colour change for each yarn. Work Yarn A for foundation Short Rows. At beg of Spiral Rounds, carry Yarn B in the sts (ie. trap Yarn B in the body of each dc st around). When you come to 1st colour change in Yarn A, change working yarn to Yarn B in the last draw through of the st and then carry Yarn A. Continue in this fashion, switching between Yarns A & B whenever the working yarn comes to a colour change, so each yarn alternates between being worked and being carried. The jogs of colour change are part of the design that embraces crazy colour.
Tapestry crochet involves carrying the unworked yarn within the body of the st. It is essential to control tension of carried yarn to avoid it puckering out between sts if too loose or gathering stitches tog if too tight. My suggested method is to adjust tension of carried yarn at end of each round by gently pulling it tighter, so it gathers the round slightly first, then firmly stretch the fabric out again, so the carried yarn sits evenly within the round and match the contour of the tube, then cont working next round.
Note: I have chosen to use a smaller than usual hook size for small stitches, and the controlled tension of the carried yarn helps to keep them sitting side by side for a dense fabric suited to the hard-wearing function of gauntlets. The soft nature of Scheepjes Downtown yarn (even more so after blocking) prevents them becoming too stiff.
Adjusting your fit: The number of rounds is set for length, but hand proportion and size vary a great deal between individuals and even between our dominant to non-dominant hands. Everyone will differ in flexibility to fold their palm to get the hand through the narrowest section for the wrist. Therefore, the number of decs, incs, and st counts described by my instructions may need adjustment for your hands. It is important to keep trying the first gauntlet on as you go to determine if you work all the decs or incs and note any adjustments for working the second gauntlet.
Work the second gauntlet including the same custom changes but keep trying it on to check fit as it is possible that you may need fewer or more incs/decs between your dominant and non-dominant hand. Also, keep laying it flat on top of the first gauntlet as you go to check they are the same size (ie. matching tension).
Gauge and Finished Measurements:
Foundation short rows/edging techniques are used to splay Forearm Opening a little larger than extrapolating stitch gauge would suggest to reach schematic measurements. Conversely, edging technique gathers Fingers and Thumb Openings a little smaller to cinch the fabric in. Bear these purposes in mind when working your edging stitches. Stitch and round gauge as described on page 2 is valid for the body of the gauntlet.
For pattern support please join my Facebook group Pepper-Gaggle and ask away!
Yep, finally - the actual pattern!
TIP: For anything that you are struggling with or doesnt seem to make sense during the project - don't forget to go back to the Pattern Notes and Special Abbreviations sections as the answer will generally be there.
FOUNDATION SHORT ROWS
See Pattern Notes for Colour Handling before starting foundation Short Rows.
With a 2.5mm hook and Yarn A, ch2, turn.
Short Row 1 (WS) Ch1, 1dc in 3rd ch from hook, turn. [2 sts]
Short Row 2 (RS) Ch1, 1dc, turn. [2sts]
Cont as Short Row 2 for 54 (62: 70) more rows, (total of 56 (64: 72) rows, finishing with a RS row).
Ch1 (does not count as a st), ensure long strip of Short Rows is not twisted, and bring Row 1 up to end of last row to beg working in a spiral by edging across Short Rows as explained below.
SHAPING FOREARM TO WRIST
See Pattern Notes for Colour Handling and Tension Issues before starting Spiral Rounds.
Tip: PM in 1st st Spiral Round and move it up at end of each round to keep track of beg of round.
Round 1 (RS) 1Dc in sp bet ch and dc of Short Row 1 to close the ring, now beg carrying Yarn B and cont with rem of round, working 1dc/Short Row by inserting hook in the sp bet the ch and dc of each Short Row around. [56 (64: 72) dc]
See photo below for beg carrying Yarn B in Round 1 dc sts. (The pink/red yarn is the working Yarn A; the cream/yellow yarn is the carried Yarn B).
Round 2 (straight round) Dc around (1dc in each st - insert hook under 2 lps). [56 (64: 72) dc]
Rounds 3-15 (straight rounds) As Round 2
Round 16 (-2 dec round) 1dc2tog, dc half-way around, 1dc2tog, dc around to beg. [54 (62: 70) dc]
Photo below shows the finished Left Gauntlet and beg of Right Gauntlet. Note the appearance of both RS and WS of fabric and carried/working yarns.
Rounds 17-23 (straight rounds) As Round 2.
Round 24 (-2 dec round) As round 16. [52 (60: 68) dc]
Rounds 25-40 Cont in est dec patt as described in prev 8 rounds for 16 more rounds, finishing with 48 (56: 64) dc. Try it on a few times as you go to ensure you can fit your hand through the narrowest part of the taper – work a straight round instead of a dec round as necessary to fit the contour of your forearm & wrist. See Pattern Notes – Adjusting Your Fit.
Rounds 41-47 (straight rounds) As Round 2.
SHAPING WRIST TO SPLIT FOR FINGERS AND THUMB
Round 48 (+4 inc round) *2dc in next st, dc a quarter-way around, rep from * 3 more times. [52 (60: 68) dc]
Round 49 (straight round) As Round 2.
Rounds 50-65 Cont in est inc patt as described in prev 2 rounds for 16 more rounds, finishing with 84 (92: 100) dc, and at end Rounds 55 and 59, move the line of incs (and therefore beg of round) forward around the spiral so it’s 50% offset from the previous line of incs - do this by cont with dc sts beyond end of prev round. (See 2nd photo below; blue arrows). This moves beg of round approx. one quarter around the spiral by end of Round 65.
Rounds 66-69 (straight rounds) As Round 2.
Photo below shows offset of incs and beg of round to spread out the visual effect. Each blue arrow points to a short line of incs at beg of round.
SPLIT FOR FINGERS AND THUMB OPENINGS
Round 1 (RS) 11Dc, 1dctog by working 1st leg into next st, skip 24 (27: 30) sts and work 2nd leg into the next st (the skipped sts are now the Thumb Opening), dc around. [59 (64: 69) dc]
Round 2 Dc around.
Stop carrying yarn within sts now and rem will be worked in current working yarn.
Round 3 7Dc, 2htr, 5tr, 2htr, dc around to beg.
Round 4 16htr (moves beg of round), ##
Cont with Final Edge for Fingers Opening.
Explanatory landmarks are included in next round to guide placement of spike sts if you have different stitch counts from custom fit adjustments. The idea is 30 sts form the decorative spike st pattern from index finger to outside edge of little finger/side of palm, and the remaining sts alternate (1dc2tog, 1dc) around to beg of round. Where spike sts are worked, miss the st of the prev round and instead insert the hook into the st 3, 4 or 5 rounds below as indicated.
Final Edge Fingers Opening 5 (4: 6)Dc (now in line with index finger as worn), (1spike dc worked 3 rounds below, 1dc) 5 times, (1spike dc worked 4 rounds below, 1dc) 5 times, (1spike dc worked 5 rounds below, 1dc) 5 times (now in line with outside of little finger as worn), (1dc2tog, 1dc) 8 (10: 11), Secret Sew Finish. [51 (54: 58) sts]
Round 1 (RS) Join New Yarn (use same colour as for Fingers Opening) in 1st skipped st, (1dc2tog, 1dc) around, Secret Sew Finish, use tail to neatly darn fabric between openings. [16 (18: 20) sts]
See photo below - it helps to place gauntlet on hand to do this whilst maintaining comfort).
Edging Round (RS) Join New Yarn (any desired colour) in sp bet ch and dc of Foundation Short Row 1 and complete this round working (1dc2tog, 1dc in same place as 2nd leg of dc2tog) around, inserting hook in the sp bet the ch and dc of each Short Row, Secret Sew Finish. [56 (64: 72) dc]
As Left Gauntlet to ##
Final Edge Fingers Opening Right Gauntlet (1Dc, dc2tog) 6 (7: 8) times, (now in line with outside of little finger as worn), (1dc, 1spiked dc worked 5 rounds below) 5 times, (1dc, 1spiked dc worked 4 rounds below) 5 times, (1dc, 1spiked dc worked 3 rounds below) 5 times (now in line with index finger as worn), 5 (4: 6)dc, (1dc, dc2tog) 2 (3: 3) times, Secret Sew Finish. [51 (54: 58) sts]
Thumb Opening and Forearm Opening As Left Gauntlet
Sew in all tails and wet block.
And voilá! All done. The challenge is in fine tuning your tension of the carried yarn and matching the second mitten in finished size to the first. Sometimes these seemingly simple small projects can still teach you something new! Please when sharing your finished Groovy Gauntlets on socials to show your friends, use the hastags #peppergoose and #groovygauntlets so I can see them too, and maybe I will see you in my private Facebook group Peppergaggle!!
Downtown is available from Scheepjes retailers worldwide, and these two affiliate links*:
Wool Warehouse (in the UK, ships worldwide including the US)
Caros Atelier (in The Netherlands) &
Leanne at Yarns For All
& Anna and Mike at Stitchcraft & Wizardry)
are my local Scheepjes Retailers in Perth, Western Australia.
As always, happy stitching!
*This blog contains affiliate links – shopping via these links does not cost you any extra but it means I receive a small part of the sale – thank you for your support!